I don't use patterns. I drape around my body and pin and sew. You have to let the dress become what it will. I'm inspired by Erin Manning's writing on a Japanese designer in Dress Becomes Body chapter of The minor Gesture, though I began hand sewing in this fashion before I encountered this book. (I'll write more on this later)
The above pink dress I made in a day and a half of frenzied sewing for a new years eve event. I sewed 11 hours straight new years eve from 8am to 7pm.
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